Chef's Blog

Braised Oxtails with Maitake, Caramelized Orange & Shallots

Notes: This recipe was create for Tony Maws’ appearance on Chef Ming Tsai’s Show “Simply Ming - East Meets West” on WGBH.  Challenge was to reflect the theme of the show and use Worcestershire sauce

(Oxtails have their own distinctively delicious flavor but in a pinch you could substitute another braising cut such as beef shanks, cheeks, or short ribs.)

Ingredients:
4# cut, grass-fed oxtails
1 navel orange, sliced into 1/2″ rounds
1/2″ ginger, smashed
6 ea peeled shallots
1/3# maitake mushrooms
2 cup full bodied red wine
2T Worcestershire sauce
1 bunch scallion, sliced thin
flour for dusting
salt and pepper
canola oil for browning

Dust and season the cut oxtails all around with flour, salt and pepper.
Heat oil over medium-high heat in a Le Creuset or other enameled braising pot.
Color oxtails on all sides and remove from pot.
Discard oil and wipe clean.
Add 2T oil and roast oranges on both sides, remove when well caramelized on both sides.
Roast maitake, ginger and whole shallots in the same pot until they color slightly and begin to soften.
Deglaze with red wine and Worcestershire sauce, reduce by 1/2.
Add the oxtails and oranges back to the pot.
Add enough water to cover half the oxtails
Cover and cook in a 300 degree oven until falling of the bone.
Strain off the sauce and reduce by half or until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Fold the braised ingredients and scallions together and serve.

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Mustard and Spice-Crusted Rack of Lamb

 Super flavorful and super easy.  A real crowd-pleaser!

  • 1/4 cup dijon mustard
  • 1 Tblsp toasted cumin seeds
  • 1 tsp toasted coriander seeds
  • 1 tsp ground black pepper
  • 1 Tblsp chopped parsley
  • 1 Tblsp tarragon
  • 1 tsp chopped rosemary
  • 1 cup plus 2 Tblsp extra virgin olive oil
  • kosher salt
  • 1 8-bone rack of lamb — preferably local (you can also use individual lamb chops)
  • 1 black steel or cast iron pan
Preheat oven to 375 F
Mix the first 7 ingredients and 1 cup of olive oil in a mixing bowl (reserve the 2 tblsp EVO for later).
Season the rack of lamb liberally with kosher salt and the mustard rub.
Let sit at least an hour but is better if done the day before.
Heat pan on stove with the remaining olive oil.
Sear the lamb rack evenly on all sides.
Place in preheated oven for 20 minutes or until a skewer or cake tester inserted into the rack is warm when removed.  Alternatively, use a meat thermometer and remove when it reaches 130 degrees and let it rest for 10 minutes before slicing into individual chops and serve. 

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Hot Buttered Rum Cider

A few more steps than your average Hot Buttered Rum, but we think well worth it.

For 1 Gallon of Cider:

Stud 2 oranges with 20 cloves each, piercing the orange skin

Add 1/2 medium vanilla bean split lengthwise
2 Black Cardamom Pods
8 Allspice Berries
1 Sticks of Canella (Broken into pieces)
12 Juniper Berries
1Star Anise
10 Black Peppercorns
1/2 Teaspoon Ginger pieces
1/2 Teaspoon Mace
This should be brought up to a boil and let simmer on low heat for 5 hours.  If duration is less than this it can be left overnight with spices intact.
Strain through a chinois and bottle.

Compound butter:

1 pound butter
1 cup lightly packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground canella (or cinnamon)
3/4 of one nutmeg grated
pinch of salt

Let butter temper and then beat in remaining ingredients being careful not to incorporate a lot of air.  Put butter mixture on to parchment paper or plastic wrap and form a log about an inch and a half in diameter.  Refrigerate until firm then slice into half inch pieces.

For the Toddy:

1 piece of compound butter
2 dashes Angostura bitters
1.5 oz Appleton Reserve Jamaican Rum
6 oz Mulled cider

Heat and mix the drink, incorporating the butter into the beverage. (We steam this mixture on the frothing wand of the cappuccino machine.  You could also use a hand held mini milk frother.)  Top with grated cinnamon stick and grated nutmeg and serve.

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Creme Caramel

Caramel:

1 ÂĽ cups vanilla sugar

 ½ cup sugar

 

Custard:

2 fresh vanilla beans

3 cups whole milk

Âľ cups vanilla sugar

3 whole eggs

6 egg yolks

 

PREHEAT OVEN TO 325 DEGREES

 

For the caramel:

Place sugar and water in a heavy saucepan

Put on medium heat and simmer until it caramelizes, a dark amber color.  Too far and it will burn and taste bitter, so keep your eye on it!

Pour the caramel into the ramekin or baking pan and let cool.  Be careful, caramel is extremely hot, hotter than boiling water.

 

For the custard:

Steep the vanilla and milk – put vanilla beans in milk and scald (begins to simmer), cover and let infuse for 10 -15 minutes.

Put all eggs into a large mixing bowl.  Once the milk is fully infused add the sugar and whisk vigorously. Slowly pour the milk mixture into the egg and sugar mixture while whisking. Be sure to scrape all the seeds in the pod into this mixture.

Save the scraped pods for future vanilla sugar infusions.

 

Pour the custard base into the mold.  Place in a water bath in the oven and cook until set and a cake tester or toothpick comes out clean, 1 – 1 ½ hours depending on size.

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Local, Sustainable, Humane Dining Just Empty Gestures???

A recent NY Times Online article uses Craigie On Main as an example of “ethical consumerism” – questioning whether a consumer’s choices to buy and eat locally and morally is a meaningful gesture or just an empty substitute for “real” social action:  http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/10/us/10iht-currents.html?_r=1 

 The author, Anand Giridharadas, dined at Craigie recenty.He kindly wrote us about how much he enjoyed his meal.  Now, after reading his article, we’re flattered again - but also confused.  Mr. Giridharadas  seems to be placing Chef Tony Maws and our team here at Craigie right at the crossroads of an important conversation about global societal change. 

It seems to us that his article presents a false choice between eating at a restaurant like ours – one that prioritizes local, sustainable, and delicious food – and being genuinely committed to bettering the world.  We choose to do both.   

We’re hoping that our diners’ choice to “vote with their pocketbooks” about how their food – and those who grow, catch, and cook it –  does indeed create financial pressure.  From the boycotts of the Civil Rights Movement to the seed of the anti-apartheid movement – a group of South African exiles who simply asked folks not to buy South African goods —  the power of the purse to advance social justice is apparent. We’re with Margaret Mead on that one: “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has.”  

And we totally agree that consumer choices need to be matched by explicit political action. But why does this mean that we should  not  run a restaurant committed to serving well-prepared, well-sourced food, and being a good citizen in our community, because we should be out marching instead?   We think we can have it all. 

We are grateful that Mr. Giridharadas has articulated some important trends.  We definitely hope this sparks a useful and continuing dialog, and that people put their money where their mouths are.

We can and will cook and eat responsibly and happily,and urge others to do the same. And after we vote or march or call our congressman, we like to sustain our stomachs with a ragout of beautiful forest mushrooms that were foraged by hand a few miles from here. They’ll be in a dish with homemade sausage, local fall vegetables and a farm-fresh poached egg.

From the Team and Craigie On Main

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