Archive for September 2008

Irradiated Spinach - What’s the Problem?

But here’s the biggest problem with irradiation as a measure to combat food-borne illness. Right now, there are only two facilities in the country that do it. One is in Iowa, and the other is in Florida. Anyone can see that this creates a tremendous bottleneck. And anyone who cares a fig about the food miles that went into their dinner can see that this would add enormously to the carbon footprint of fresh produce. What is the sense in buying spinach that was grown a county or two away, if it is going to be shipped to Florida and back before it reaches your plate? To make irradiation as widespread as necessary to fix this bottleneck, would simply be to build yet another massive industry to fix one that is already broken, and whose problems are not being addressed.

Essentially this is a downstream “solution” to a massive upstream problem. The spinach that was recalled last year was grown using water contaminated by cow feces. This is a crisis of our production methods. Our food system, as it currently operates, is a beastly mess. Part of the reason it was so difficult to pinpoint the source of tainted spinach is because it came into a processing facility, was mixed with greens from countless other sources, and went into air-locked bags, bound for markets all over the country.

Irradiating food at the end of the production line means that growing, cleaning, shipping, and packaging methods will have less oversight and be more prone to lax and dirty practices. Abandoning our responsibility to scrutinize the sources of our food is unbelievably foolish. And it does nothing to encourage the kind of changes in growing practice that would ensure a sustainable, healthy foodstream.

So if the red herring of “radioactive” spinach doesn’t strike fear into your heart, be assured that a food system that allows and encourages a bacterial mess, only to ineffectively and inefficiently clean it up later on, should.

Late last month, the FDA approved a new regulation that allows for the irradiation of fresh spinach and iceberg lettuce. This measure follows in the wake of the e-coli outbreaks traced to contaminated spinach, which killed three people and sickened 205 more in 2006. For big food industry supporters, it’s seen as [...]

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Late last month, the FDA approved a new regulation that allows for the irradiation of fresh spinach and iceberg lettuce. This measure follows in the wake of the e-coli outbreaks traced to contaminated spinach, which killed three people and sickened 205 more in 2006. For big food industry supporters, it’s seen as a new tool in the arsenal to keep the nation’s food supply safe. For others the words “irradiation” and “food” should never be in the same sentence and stir up disturbing images of radioactive salads and a food system run seriously off the rails.

So which side is right? Irradiation like this is both new and not new. Not new because a few foods have been treated with radiation since the early sixties. The effort began with dried herbs and spices, in order to kill bacteria and keep them shelf-stable for longer. More recently, following e-coli outbreaks in hamburger in the 1990’s, meat has been irradiated too. But this measure represents a new era in the practice, because it is a further expansion into domestically-grown fresh, perishable vegetables, the foods we most often eat raw

How can you know if your food has been irradiated? For the time being, all treated food must bear the logo you see at the top of this post. (Doesn’t it look benignly progressive?) The package must also state clearly that the product has been irradiated or “treated with radiation”. So far, not a whole lot of our food supply has been irradiated or borne these labels. The public’s response has been tepid at best. But food industry lobbyists are pressing to have the labels removed – so the consumer wouldn’t know what kind of treatment her food had been subject to before she drops it in her grocery cart.

Attempting again, not to be too much of an alarmist, it is important to note that the new regulation allows these foods to be irradiated, it doesn’t require that they be. So, for the time being, the spinach and lettuce you buy in a grocery store, unless it bears the irradiation logo, is probably not treated. But what is this process all about? Will your spinach glow in the dark, or, worse yet, cause cancer? From the website of Food & Water Watch, a consumer advocacy group keeping an eye on our food system:

“Irradiation exposes food to a high dose of ionizing radiation, which comes from one of three sources: electron beam (electricity), cobalt 60 (nuclear waste byproduct), or cesium 137 (also a nuclear waste byproduct). It is intended to kill bacteria such as E.coli or Salmonella. It also extends shelf-life. However, studies have shown it depletes the nutritional content of food as well as leaving behind chemical byproducts in the food

Irradiation facilities use gamma rays, x-rays, or electron beams to irradiate food.”

It must be noted that irradiation does not leave food radioactive. But should this really be our best standard of excellence? Nutritionally depleted, chemically altered, but not radioactive?

The flavor and texture can be altered by radiation, and some of foods’ essential nutrients destroyed. For instance, the kind of dose that would knock the bacteria out of eggs or orange juice reduces vitamin A and beta carotene by 80%, respectively.

Perhaps this is a price we’re willing to pay for food safety and a cessation of deadly outbreaks. Unfortunately, treating foods with radiation in order to eradicate deadly bacteria is, on the whole, ineffective. Irradiation of food kills a majority of the bacteria, but not nearly all – and it really only takes one tiny bacterium to cause illness.

But here’s the biggest problem with irradiation as a measure to combat food-borne illness. Right now, there are only two facilities in the country that do it. One is in Iowa, and the other is in Florida. Anyone can see that this creates a tremendous bottleneck. And anyone who cares a fig about the food miles that went into their dinner can see that this would add enormously to the carbon footprint of fresh produce. What is the sense in buying spinach that was grown a county or two away, if it is going to be shipped to Florida and back before it reaches your plate? To make irradiation as widespread as necessary to fix this bottleneck, would simply be to build yet another massive industry to fix one that is already broken, and whose problems are not being addressed.

Essentially this is a downstream “solution” to a massive upstream problem. The spinach that was recalled last year was grown using water contaminated by cow feces. This is a crisis of our production methods. Our food system, as it currently operates, is a beastly mess. Part of the reason it was so difficult to pinpoint the source of tainted spinach is because it came into a processing facility, was mixed with greens from countless other sources, and went into air-locked bags, bound for markets all over the country.

Irradiating food at the end of the production line means that growing, cleaning, shipping, and packaging methods will have less oversight and be more prone to lax and dirty practices. Abandoning our responsibility to scrutinize the sources of our food is unbelievably foolish. And it does nothing to encourage the kind of changes in growing practice that would ensure a sustainable, healthy foodstream.

So if the red herring of “radioactive” spinach doesn’t strike fear into your heart, be assured that a food system that allows and encourages a bacterial mess, only to ineffectively and inefficiently clean it up later on, should.

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New News

Welcome to something new. We are in the middle of a large transformation over here at Craigie Street. We’re changing or name and location: I hate to be presumptuous but I believe most people know we’re moving to 853 Main Street in Central Square. We will become Craigie on Main and you will be able to visit us there in mid-November. We will have a greater stage to perform on, all the while offering you, our guests, a few more options within our restaurant. We will have a full bar with a full liquor license for some unbelievable cocktails along with our take on a bar menu for food. Once we get our wheels spinning we plan on opening for lunch and brunch in the early winter. We will have one of the most bad-ass kitchens around (in both equipment and personnel) and you will be able to see all of it. We will have a few more tables that will allow for more prime time reservations, along with more flexibility for larger tables. We’re going to have some ring side seats overlooking the kitchen itself — our own kitchen stadium where you can see first hand the grace and finesse the hardworking cooks use to prepare your meal.

Change can be both scary and exciting. We have been so fortunate to have a bit of success in our current cozy basement. Our last day will, indeed, be a very bittersweet day when we do finally make our move. But change can also create new opportunities. In our case we’re looking forward to saying “yes” more often than we already do at Craigie Street. It has been my personal mission to hold fast to our current mission, to not stray from our cooking and service philosophy one iota. Instead, we’re looking to improve upon everything we already do. Craigie Street Bistrot has it’s own charms, most of which we could never recreate anywhere else under any circumstances. I will miss most of these qualities terribly (”most” because some charms are management/ownership nightmares — someday I’ll start telling some stories…). But rest assured: we are not creating a cookie-cutter, ubiquitous, over styled, cold, too ambitious, forgetting our past, ignoring what got us here, all flash and no substance restaurant. Craigie on Main will have it’s own charms (and I’m sure a few headaches as well, but they’ll be NEW headaches!!!) and I can’t wait to discover them with you joining me, as our guest, for some great food and fun times.

We will, in turn, be metamorphosing the blog. I have pledged to be the primary contributor. I will have monthly videos — some instructional, some documentary. I will wax on occasionally in a self-important, listen to me talk about the way food should be (those of you who know me will be relieved to hear that I will have a new venue for these rants). We will hope to shed some light on the way we approach all things culinary, offering tips, trucs, and training along the way.

I can’t wait to tell you more about it.
Talk soon,
Tony Maws
Chef/Proprietor
Craigie Street Bistrot

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Craigie On Main - Under Construction!

Thanks to all of you who offered well-wishes about the move to Main Street in Central Square. The Bistrot team now has the keys to the new site (what used to be La Groceria) — and the renovations are underway.

“Team Tony” — famed for their barn-raising spirit in helping to get Craigie Street Bistrot ready for its (not so) grand opening six years ago — were once again out in force to get the job started.

Thanks to Peter Leis for these photos. The site may not look like much now, but we needed some “before” shots so you’ll be duly impressed by the “after!”






BTW: The Craigie On Main website is also under construction. Be sure to check it periodically for updates.

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Spread the word – Craigie Street has hit Main Street!

Chef Tony Maws -Boston’s Best Chef (Boston Magazine) and James Beard Award Nominee for Best Chef, Northeast - combines his French-inspired “nose to tail refined rusticity” with a ”no exceptions” commitment to local, seasonal, and organic or natural ingredients. Join us for unmistakably “Craigie” drinks and plates in the bar, a private party, our “Sunday Best” brunch, our adventurous (and bargain) Chef’s Whim, or a Chef’s Tasting Menu!

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