Local, Sustainable, Humane Dining Just Empty Gestures???

A recent NY Times Online article uses Craigie On Main as an example of “ethical consumerism” – questioning whether a consumer’s choices to buy and eat locally and morally is a meaningful gesture or just an empty substitute for “real” social action:  http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/10/us/10iht-currents.html?_r=1 

 The author, Anand Giridharadas, dined at Craigie recenty.He kindly wrote us about how much he enjoyed his meal.  Now, after reading his article, we’re flattered again - but also confused.  Mr. Giridharadas  seems to be placing Chef Tony Maws and our team here at Craigie right at the crossroads of an important conversation about global societal change. 

It seems to us that his article presents a false choice between eating at a restaurant like ours – one that prioritizes local, sustainable, and delicious food – and being genuinely committed to bettering the world.  We choose to do both.   

We’re hoping that our diners’ choice to “vote with their pocketbooks” about how their food – and those who grow, catch, and cook it –  does indeed create financial pressure.  From the boycotts of the Civil Rights Movement to the seed of the anti-apartheid movement – a group of South African exiles who simply asked folks not to buy South African goods —  the power of the purse to advance social justice is apparent. We’re with Margaret Mead on that one: “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has.”  

And we totally agree that consumer choices need to be matched by explicit political action. But why does this mean that we should  not  run a restaurant committed to serving well-prepared, well-sourced food, and being a good citizen in our community, because we should be out marching instead?   We think we can have it all. 

We are grateful that Mr. Giridharadas has articulated some important trends.  We definitely hope this sparks a useful and continuing dialog, and that people put their money where their mouths are.

We can and will cook and eat responsibly and happily,and urge others to do the same. And after we vote or march or call our congressman, we like to sustain our stomachs with a ragout of beautiful forest mushrooms that were foraged by hand a few miles from here. They’ll be in a dish with homemade sausage, local fall vegetables and a farm-fresh poached egg.

From the Team and Craigie On Main